When I finished the first post on food, I knew that something was wrong, was missing from it. Not to mention that I hated that upbeat ending that sits there like a fake smile on a greeter at some big box store.
I show some pictures of people that suggested something about their relationship to food, slag Michael Pollan, talk shallowly about food security, and then wrap it all up with a big shiny ribbon. This is not finally anything. The piece that's missing -- considering that this is a blog and not an op-ed, or a research paper, or even a term paper -- is a person and that person is me.
Because I'm the person who has eaten Popeye's chicken and probably will again. And I am one of the people with enough disposable income to go to Slow Food 2008 and eat fabulous hand-crafted eats. And I am the person who sometimes (but never often enough) buys food from her local farmer's market (which is about three blocks away). And I am the person who joined a coop but never makes it there on Saturday to shop. And I am the person who thinks about buying organic and will if the price differential isn't too great. And I am the person who will spend hours making something that will get eaten in fifteen (ok, twenty) minutes. And I am the person who is pretty happy with the cheapest Chinese takeout (from that place on 16th near Capp).
My relationship to food and cooking and eating is complicated, which makes me a lot like many people in the USA. But I can only make sense of food in this country by making sense of my own feelings about and actions around food.
I'm not going to make an everywoman claim here. For one thing, I like to cook. Lots of people (even ones who like to eat good food) don't necessarily like to cook. And they don't have to. One thing about living in the twenty-first (and for that matter in the middle to end of the twentieth) century, is that you can eat pretty well without having to learn to cook. Before then, unless you lived in a city, you needed to cook or have someone in your house who cooked, if you wanted to eat. If you were a woman, you were probably the cook. All women don't love cooking. My stepmother, who I mentioned in the first part, hated it. Sallie Tisdale writes about her mother who, like my stepmother, felt she had to cook and disliked it. (Tisdale writes about a lot more, it's a great food book.)
But I came from a family of women (excepting my stepmother) who mainly did like to cook and were good at it. They also cooked for a living. My grandmother on my dad's side was a live-in cook for a family near Palmyra, NY. Her mother was also a cook. My great-aunt cooked for a restaurant in a bar in Harlem (among her many different jobs). My mom's mother cooked and her mother cooked. Through their cooking I learned to love eating. I had paella for the first time at my great-aunt's apartment. I had great southern breakfasts, with eggs, grits, fried chicken, and biscuits at my mother's mother's house in Philly. I ate I don't know how many roasts and desserts over years of holidays. I have my dad's mother's recipe cards.
But I didn't learn how to cook from them. I learned to cook, really cook, once I left home.
That's also where I started to care about where food came from, how it was prepared, and how it got on my plate. I've worked in health food stores, natural food stores, and in a natural food warehouse. I've learned a lot about food production. I'm not a naif about how meat is produced or how farm workers remain the most exploited and ignored groups of hard working people in this country. How does that knowledge affect my shopping/cooking/eating? It makes me do the right thing when I can and feel guilty for the times when I go ahead and buy or eat that thing that violates my values around food.
I'm not the only one. And this is why changing the culture of food is going to be so difficult. Even those of us who know better, don't always do better because we are part of a culture that wants what it wants, when it wants it.
No matter what it costs someone else. No matter what it costs the soil. No matter what it means in the long run because we don't think in the long run.





