
That image a couple of paragraphs down is from Slow Food 2008. I took it in San Francisco. On the left is a picture I took this April in NYC. The details are a little hard to see, so let me describe it. It's a line of people standing on 145th street in Harlem. They're lined up to get the Popeye's Chicken Special. I think it was a bucket of 9 pieces, with biscuits for $2.99. The line, though you can't see it in the photo, was pretty long. There must have been fifty people waiting on a chilly, dreary day for a cheap bucket of chicken and a pile of greasy (though I have to say tasty) biscuits.
These two photos say a lot about what it means to eat in the USA.

Food is not just feeding. Food is economics. Food is culture. Food is class. Food is tradition
and innovation. If you want to read about sustainable farming (and the pushback from Big Ag), then go over to Eco-Salon and read
Vanessa's piece. She's great and she knows what she's talking about.
This post has been percolating in my head for more than a year. I have tried to think about how to write about the problems with food and and money and people in the USA. I talk with people. I read things. And lately I've been listening to Michael Pollan's
In Defense of Food (nothing better than audiobooks about food when you're cooking dinner). Maybe it was listening to Pollan that finally pushed me over the edge to writing because his book is not about to fix anything, but his attempt to fix what's wrong with food in the USA reveals a lot of the problems with even thinking about this whole mess.
At one point, Pollan is telling the reader how to eat, some specifics to follow up on the basic dictum of "eat real food, mainly fruit and vegetables, not much meat . . . " which had been repeated a number of times. After suggesting that we buy a big freezer and buy quarters of beef, he says, offhandedly, " I realize that not everyone can do this, but those of us who can should. " And there is the key obstacle to "fixing" the myriad and complicated issues of food in a nutshell. Personal, individual solutions are offered up for what are institutional, commercial problems. Not that food in America is a problem for business people, unless you seriously think that getting more people to buy poor-quality food is a legitimate sort of problem. However it is increasingly an institutional problem in a country where more and more people suffer from food insecurity, if not actual starvation and food-related illnesses and disabilities grow .
We all make individual decisions about how and what to eat. The people at Slow Food 2008 are opting for hand-crafted, scrupulously produced, and incredibly tasty food. The people in line at Popeye's are choosing uniformly manufactured, mass-produced, and kinda tasty food. There are businesses, smallish in the former case, immense in the latter, to provide them with the food they want and are willing to pay for. When the bulk of the infrastructure for food production and distribution is aimed at a mass-produced, uniform, and cheapish cuisine, our individual choices narrow, especially if we don't have the time or money to find alternatives. To eat well in the USA, the deck is stacked against all of us. If you follow Pollan (and many people do), the solution is to feed yourself and your family better, working in the interstices of a crappy system with as much of your disposable income as you can afford to spend.
But if the real problem in the USA is to get good quality, healthy food to everyone in the country, there's not much business in place to make that happen and not much institutional support for it either. There are food deserts in cities, places where there's no access to any food except what a corner store will carry (processed, shelf life measured in months, little fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and forget about fish).
But the logistics don't strike me as being the only hurdle to better eating in the USA. The hurdles are cultural and economic. And the cultural barriers might be the highest.
Although I'm not 100% with Polland, he does say one thing that I completely agree with and he hasn't thought through all the ramifications that follow it. There are different food cultures in the world and that's not just about whether your main protein is fish or chicken; whether your main starch is potatoes, rice, or cassava. Food culture is also about the preparation and consumption of food. That's something that both the people in the Popeye's line and the people at Slow Food 2008 have in common, something that marks them (and all of us) as American eaters.
As far as food goes, we expect to have what ever it is we want ready when we want it. It's obvious in the Popeye's case, but consider. At Slow Food 2208 nearly all the food (if not all of it) was prepared foods, wonderfully, artfully prepared food, but prepared food nonetheless.
To change food in the USA is a two-fold process. We've got to get real, whole food to everyone. And we've got to change our relationship to food and eating. It means more cooking, more planning, more time, and maybe more money. But the money is the least of it.
Because it will mean nothing if we got good food to people all over the country who don't know what to do with it or who see cooking as low-status drudgery (my stepmother did and she was an
awful cook). Spending time choosing, buying, cooking and enjoying food is one of the most fundamental changes in our culture that I can imagine. But it could be the a key to making a lot of other things possible.